Kona Pilgrimmage: The Tribe Vibe

A key attraction for the true Kona Pilgrim is the opportunity to see and be a part of the evolving legend of triathlon. Our sport is young enough that the founders, early adherents, and initial superstars are still with us, repeating the creation stories. It’s as if George Washington and Abe Lincoln were still alive, to tell us best how the US came to be what it is today.

Everyone wants to see a pro, or former champion, to come into contact with those who epitomize the best of our sport. This morning, I was lucky enough to attend a new (second year) event, the AWA (All World Athlete) Gold breakfast. Held right across the street from the Pier, this gathering featured former champion Greg Welch interviewing 4 ex-racers who among them have won this race 23 times: Paula Newby-Fraser (8), Mark Allen (6), Dave Scott (6), and Craig Alexander (3). Over the years I have been in close contact with several other multi-time champs. In 06, when the Royal Kona Hotel was temporarily evacuated following the earthquake the Monday before the race, Normann Stadler (2) nervously occupied the lava rock next to mine while we awaited the all clear to return to our rooms. We chatted a bit about how scary earthquakes are, since you don’t know when the shaking will end.

The next time I came, I kept running into Chrissie Wellington (4). During registration, she restlessly waited in line not far from me Tuesday before the race – the pros had to wait just like the rest of us, even the returning champ! She was all smiles and graciousness, as lanky as a race-horse, with a curly mane to match. Next morning, while riding back into town near the harbor, she rolled by me, and I tried to follow. I guess she must have been cooling down, as I was able to keep up with her all the way into town and down Ali’l, where she weaved in an out of traffic as if the bike were just another part of her anatomy.

And it’s not just the pros who play the celebrity role. This year, at my condo, Mike Reilly (“The Voice of Ironman”) is staying once again. He’s easy to spot on the mo-ped he rents to whiz back and forth to his various engagements. This evening, at dinner near the condo, he comes walking past our table, having chosen just like us the ocean-side restaurant closest to our digs.

The other morning, I had opened the door to cool off the condo just before sunrise. This shaven headed well-built man with a friendly smile knocks on the door jamb, and says, “Hi. I’m Barry Siff. Do you have a pump? I need one.” Well, all I have is a travel pump, 100 pumps to get to 100 psi, and he says he needs more (must be old school), so off he went, while I buzzed through my brain for than familiar name. Oh, yeah, the guy who put on all those races out of Boulder, sold them to WTC, and now is back in the business again. And, he’s the President of the Board of USA Triathlon.

Three years ago, at the Expo, I ran into a lady named Karen, who in 2000 had fitted me for the tri bike I still use. I reminded her of that, and she told me to bring the bike in so she could see it and reminisce. The next day, I went back, and started talking to her about my desire to get a new aerobar set up. She interrupted me, and said, “You should probably talk to that guy over there” – pointed to a bald headed fellow slouching off to the side – “he knows way more about it than me.” This guy listens patiently to my spiel about getting the bike from Quintana Roo, having Merlin cut it for S&S couplers, how I had to have the front end repaired, and now it was too high and I wanted to get it a bit lower. He starts talking about stack and reach, analyzing the meaning of my angled elbow pads, and generally going on about various front units from Zipp and Profile Design. He seemed very knowledgeable even if I could’t understand 80% of what he was saying. When he mentioned that, “Back when we designed your bike…” I realised I was talking to Dan Empfield, an early innovator in the sport who basically invented the racing wet suit and the geometry which still rules our tri bikes. Oh, and he also founded and runs Slowtwitch.com and its forum, a gathering place for all things triathlon – the insiders’ journal, so to speak.

Random encounters like these are part of the expectation of any triathlete touring Kona during race week; it’s a big part of what makes the week so special. The entire Tribe has gathered here: the best athletes, the industry heavies, the media celebrities, and all the rest of us walk side-by-side up and down Ali’l to the various events. We are all running the same routes down Ali’i, riding the same roads out of town, and swimming the same waters in Kailua Bay. Anywhere you go, you seem to bump into them, providing little vignettes with which to impress yourself and your less fortunate buddies back home come winter.

Top on the list of places to do this shoulder rubbing is Island Lava Java, a coffee house which has somehow found itself as THE place to grab a drink, sit down under an umbrella in front of the Bay, and people watch. The lines here mid-morning stretch out the door and nearly down to the street. Recently added to the list of must-go places, is the coffee boat which sets up shop race week about 200 meters out in the bay. It is such a unique-to-Kona-race-week thing that it has become part of the Vibe as well, one of the things you must do in order to say you have done it. Me, I don’t drink coffee, so I’ve never stopped there, but those who have, well, let’s just say it’s not the coffee which attracts them.