Category Archives: Travelogues

The Long and Winding Road

Chaim opened with his biggest smile. “I have the tickets for tomorrow. We go to airport [which is basically right next door to the German-themed teahouse/lodge where we’re staying in Jomsom] tomorrow by 6:30. Plane might be there before 7.” … Continue reading

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Muktinath

After our 16.5 mile trek across the high wastelands of the eastern Mustangi plateau, to Tetang, we spent the night in a spacious room with adjoining hot shower, well-prepared for the next day’s 2.5 hour walk back down the Kali … Continue reading

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The Longest Day

“I only find one horse, for Cheryl,” Chaim announced at breakfast. “Al, you are OK walking? Maybe we go 9, 10 hours today?” That was just fine with me. I was surprised by how vigorous I felt after ten days … Continue reading

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Man Cave/Cave Man

  Leaving Yara, we face 26 miles of walking with 10,000 feet of elevation gain, with only one tea house lodge along the way. Trekkers supported by a full porter team, who are camping out each night, manage this in … Continue reading

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Hole In The Wall Gang

Like cathedrals in Europe, the locals think we are fascinated by every one of their monasteries. The interiors are all the same, the decorations and layouts just a variation on a theme. But how many cathedrals are housed in a … Continue reading

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It’s All Downhill From Here

A week above 3000 meters, four days of hard walking, two days of rest in Lo Manthang, and we felt ready to tackle the return trip to Jomsom. It looked more primitive than the route out – no “road” to … Continue reading

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Lo Manthang: Sights and Sounds

Our room looks out over the stone path which runs along Lo Manthang’s eastern wall. With daylight comes the shuffling, clacking sound of older Mustangis, twisting prayer beads, heading towards the mani walls outside the monastery. Their prayers are hummed, … Continue reading

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Lo Manthang: The Dzi Stone

“Real” Dzi stones are often hundreds of years old, passed down through generations. Venerated for their power unique to the shape and character of the eye, they bestow fortune and promise to the wearer by interacting with his own aura, providing hope in various areas of the human travail: marriage, agriculture, children, spirit – all are enhanced by the proper stone. Continue reading

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Lo Manthang: The Honor Man

In late April, the trees surrounding Lo Manthang were still leafless. Tourists were not expected for another week, for the Tiji festival. Chaim led us into the check point, just outside the sturdy, whitewashed stone and stucco city wall. While … Continue reading

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This Magic Moment (Mustang VIII)

Cheryl was having trouble getting one end of the prayer flags attached to the pole centered in the rock pile atop Lo La. The wind was as strong and persistent as we had yet seen. Chaim, no taller than Cheryl, … Continue reading

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