Category Archives: Travelogues

Lo Manthang: The Dzi Stone

“Real” Dzi stones are often hundreds of years old, passed down through generations. Venerated for their power unique to the shape and character of the eye, they bestow fortune and promise to the wearer by interacting with his own aura, providing hope in various areas of the human travail: marriage, agriculture, children, spirit – all are enhanced by the proper stone. Continue reading

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Lo Manthang: The Honor Man

In late April, the trees surrounding Lo Manthang were still leafless. Tourists were not expected for another week, for the Tiji festival. Chaim led us into the check point, just outside the sturdy, whitewashed stone and stucco city wall. While … Continue reading

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This Magic Moment (Mustang VIII)

Cheryl was having trouble getting one end of the prayer flags attached to the pole centered in the rock pile atop Lo La. The wind was as strong and persistent as we had yet seen. Chaim, no taller than Cheryl, … Continue reading

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A Tree Is A Tree…

In 1966, while running for the California governorship, Ronald Reagan allegedly said, when discussing the proposed national park to preserve the tall trees of Del Norte and Humboldt counties, “You’ve seen one redwood, you’ve seen them all.” What he actually … Continue reading

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Second City (Mustang VI)

From 1380 to 2008, the upper Mustang valley was ruled by a single dynastic line. Six hundred twenty eight years is a long time for political stability; what led to this continuous succession within one family over 24 generations? In the … Continue reading

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Rocky Road (Mustang V)

After we freshened up – which consisted of taking off dusty hiking boots – we climbed down to the tea house dining room. Windowed on two sides, it overlooked the town, which slanted below us as it crowded to the … Continue reading

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Up, Up, and Away

At 2729 meters (8930’) above sea level, Jomsom is roughly the same elevation as our home in Snowmass, Colorado. As we traveled the next two weeks, every now and then I would give Cheryl a reference of our elevation to … Continue reading

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Kagbeni

  The bells seemed distant at first – a faint metallic rattle filtering through the drafty window of our second story room. Just as the planes and airports had been growing progressively smaller and more primitive as we moved out … Continue reading

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Riverwalk (Mustang Journal II)

Jomsom Airport sits on a low plateau just west of the Kali Gandaki river. Both north and south, the riverbed spreads out nearly a mile wide, filled with rocks sized between walnuts and melons, brought down from the barren Himalayan … Continue reading

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Mustang Sally

The planes were getting progressively smaller, the flights progressively shorter, and the danger quotient geometrically higher. By the time we arrived at the Pokhara airport, I knew my fate was totally in the hands of either the Hindu gods or … Continue reading

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